Style Tips

All Leather Isn’t Created Equal

Once you know it, you can’t unknow it, but all leather is not created equal. I had my first lesson when I was just 20 years old and in search of my first pair of handmade shoes. The tannery I went to taught me about the types of leather, and I realized that all leather is not created equal.

Fun story: I was a newly minted consultant buying my first pair of real shoes, and I visited a small, mom & pop tannery because I had spotted a pair of shoes I loved on someone and stopped them to ask about the maker. They shared their secret.

And now I’m sharing it with you.

I walked in, and one of the artisans was busy making a bag. Somehow, I got invited to watch two bags being made before I placed my order for my shoes: from full grain and genuine leather. I had, until then, assumed they were all the same. I was wrong.

Watching them piece together various parts of leather to make a tote that, once complete, looked nice by most standards, hit differently when I saw the other tote made of top-grain leather. Different texture, different feel, and different pricing. I walked away with a clearer understanding of why some wallets, totes, handbags, belts, and shoes were priced the way they were (not considering the designer name).

There are basically five types of leather (from top to bottom):

  1. Full-grain leather: the best, the top, or some would say the ‘foundation of the house’
  2. Top-grain leather: the next layer under the full-grain with a little less texture (or “grain”)
  3. Split/sueded leather: if you split the full-grain, what’s left on the underside is a smooth piece of leather or “split” suede leather
  4. Genuine leather: the bulk of the leather that is leather, but sometimes worked to add the texture or grain back
  5. Bonded leather: the scraps and bits are glued together and pressed to give the appearance of leather

Learn more [here].

Full-grain leather is displayed as a badge of honor, so if you’re wondering whether your bag is full-grain, top-grain, or genuine, it’s typically labeled on the item somewhere. You don’t need top grain for everything, but for the items you want to go the distance, in my professional opinion, stick with top grain leather.

Two great examples that I share (push in on the picture and see the leather):

  1. Top-grain leather tote (in multiple color ways)
  2. A full-grain, handmade leather card case (in multiple color ways)

Now you know…

xo, mo
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Monica Barnett

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